The Brief

Lefil Paris came to me with a concept for their SS25 look: a structured, double-breasted blazer with a sharp lapel, welt pockets, and a back vent — built to hold its shape on the runway while still moving naturally with the body. My job was to take the design from concept to a production-ready pattern, entirely developed and pressure-tested in Clo3D before a single seam was cut in fabric.

Fit Evaluation in 3D

The pattern was draped onto a size EU 42 avatar to check proportion, break, and silhouette against the design intent — cross-referencing the 3D drape directly against the flat pattern pieces to catch balance issues early.

Fit evaluation, size EU 42 — draped silhouette checked live against the 2D pattern window.

Patternmaking to Industrial Standard

The blazer was built panel by panel using industrial patternmaking conventions — front and back bodices, lapel and lapel lining, side panels, two-piece sleeves, collar and collar stand, and a fully lined pocket construction with flap and welt. Every piece was labeled and grain-lined for a clean handoff to the pattern cutting stage.

Complete pattern layout — structured blazer with standard lapel, double-breasted front, welt pockets, and back vent.

Reading the Fabric Under Movement

Using Clo3D’s simulation tools, I ran a stress map across the finished blazer to see exactly where the satin was carrying tension and where it had ease to spare. The shoulder seams and collar stand showed the expected concentration of pressure — useful information for reinforcing those points before cutting the real fabric.

Stress map — pressure, ease, and movement adaptation visualized front, side, and back.

Refining the Details

The lapel and collar took the most iteration. Getting the roll line, gorge angle, and collar stand to sit correctly against the neckline meant repeated rounds of adjusting the pattern, re-draping, and checking the result in close-up before locking it in.

Lapel and collar detail, perfected against the pattern before the mockup was finalized.

Final Mockup, Colorway & Fabric

With the pattern approved, the final digital mockup brought the design together with its production fabric and finished colorway — a soft camel blazer paired with a dip-dyed trouser — giving the brand a true-to-life preview ahead of construction.

Final mockup — colorway and fabric finalized ahead of garment construction.

On the Runway

The look walked as part of Lefil Paris’s SS25 presentation during Paris Fashion Week — the double-breasted blazer holding its structure exactly as it had in the digital fit tests, across both the camel and cream colorways.

Lefil Paris, SS25 — Paris Fashion Week runway presentation, camel and cream colorways.